Psychology of Styling

By: Jada Milazzo

October 21, 2022

Style is a major part of society. The fashion industry is everywhere; magazines, media, “fashion weeks”, influencers, and celebrities. There is no denying fashion has an impact on most parts of our lives. The question is why? Why do we feel better wearing neutral tones over a bold flashy pattern, or vice versa? How is it possible that we feel different in different textiles, colors, patterns, materials, and silhouettes? And what are the factors that aid in deciding our wardrobe? Styling takes into account all of these elements. It provides a chance for experimentation of self, gender identity and expression, and emotion.

According to a fashion blog, styling boils down to 5 steps: (1) Select a Color Theme (2) Choose Foundation Pieces, referring to one’s wardrobe basics/staples (3) Apply Styling, tucking, knots, layering, cuffs, etc. (4) Add Any Accent Pieces (5) Incorporate Accessories (Moman). Following these steps helps with the basic idea of styling clothes, but it does not take into account styling for one’s personal identity and personality. Dress has been defined as “an assemblage of modifications of the body and/or supplements to the body”. Some of these body modifications include tattooing, exercising, and cosmetic surgery; while body supplements include accessories, clothing, and glasses. Most research on styling and clothing choices reflects on the ideals of social and cultural values. Our appearance is the first thing people recognize about us, as human beings. Before speaking with someone, we subconsciously judge others and make assumptions based on their exterior appearance. One’s clothing choices not only display their culture or beliefs (such as those that dress more conservatively could relate to their political and religious beliefs, while people that dress more liberally and flashy could be assumed to be carefree and rebellious), but exemplifies how they want to be perceived by the world and their peers. In a 1980s study, researchers, Cahoon and Edmonds, found that when the model was wearing more provocative clothing, they were rated as “more sexually appealing, more attractive, less faithful in marriage, more likely to engage in sexual teasing, more likely to use sex for personal gain, more likely to be sexually experienced, and more likely to be raped than when wearing conservative dress”, it is important to mention that these judgements were made by both men and women, although men’s were more aggressive and extreme judgements (Johnson). In recent studies and observations, researchers are more interested in identifying why the idea of sexual objectification is evoked by one’s dress habits. Theorists believe it relates to an objectified state of consciousness in which self-objectification occurs, the act of perceiving and describing one’s body as a function of appearance rather than accomplishment. This idea is pervasive in today’s society, in which everyone is constantly judged on their exterior appearance, so it is increasingly more important to develop a personal style.

In the past decade, the prominent use of clothing is to create a sense of style, and therefore identity. Through the relationship we have with our clothing, we can express three views of self: the ideal self, the actual self, and the “person I fear I could be”. Developing , refining, and curating a personal style is rewarding, liberating, and empowering; making one feel in control of their body. Having externally presented identities boosts our self esteem, and while we are building a wardrobe to match our identity, it also builds a space to transition and define new identities (Akkouche). Judy Butler’s theory of Performity is helpful in understanding how dress can convey our identity. It presents the idea that gender is a performative act, and when we break those norms, we become more self actualized.

There are ideologies surrounding the way people dress and the gender they conform to. These ideas pertain to the textures, patterns, colors, and the articles of clothing people choose to wear. The digital magazine, Fashion is Psychology, has released countless articles detailing how body modification and body supplements are a way of conveying our true identity. In her article, “How Fashion Can Help You Come Out!”, Tyffaine Akkouche details her experience with clothing. She dates back to when she denied her queerness and consistently dressed for the male gaze, wearing tight, revealing clothing. When she began dressing for women, she realized she was dressing for herself, and her personal style changed to items, colors, textures, silhouettes SHE loved because there were no expectations of how she should look. This experience is similar to what the character, Jules from Euphoria, experienced. She built her entire identity on a version of femininity based on the male gaze and what stereotypical men want in a woman. Similarly, most straighten men dress in a very powerful way, as an act of displaying their strength and dominance in society, while it is often the idea of queerness and embracing their feminine side that they fear. There is currently a trend in the fashion and design industry of breaking toxic masculinity and embracing patterns, colors, and textiles often used in womenswear design, as a way of presenting the feminine and soft side of masculinity. Our clothing is the first thing someone perceives about our personality; therefore, the way we dress becomes a personal act and extension of our identity. The past month, marked the end of Spring 2022 runway season, which displayed copious amounts of androgyny and gender-bending. This season brought something new to the table; showing bright, flirty, soft fabrics (classically “girlie” clothes) on guys. By the end of the season, fashion critics stated they no longer saw menswear or womenswear, they only saw clothes. With the growing interest and acceptance of non-binary individuals, the fashion industry has provided and answer and step in the right direction of creating a consistent imagery that presents queer folks with a safe space to experiment with their appearance and presentation of identity. If a person feels like dressing femininely one day, with a flowy skirt and heels, but the next a very manly appearance with a hoodie, chain, and gym shoes, then they should be able to openly exemplify that. By starting at the institution, where the specification of “gendered-clothing” are made, the fashion industry is slowly but surely creating articles of apparel that appeal and mesh with all gender identities and emotions.

The feelings of the textures of clothing and accessories, and the way an outfit makes one feel is due to the psychological and subconscious connection we have with our clothing. Professor Karen Pine, of the department of psychology at the University of Hertfordshire in Britain, found that “happy” clothes tend to be clothes that are flattering, well tailored, and made with bright patterns and textiles. In working with Pine, senior marketing lecturer, Dr. Alastair Tombs interviewed 30 women, finding that “their outfit choices are made to match mood and as a form of self-expression, but also that clothing is used to control or mask emotions” (Hartley). It is observed that when someone has a positive experience with their outfit or is complimented on their outfit, they are more likely to wear those clothes again; as opposed to when they have something negative happen to them, they associate it with the clothes and never wear them again. This same study found that when feeling depressed, upset, or anxious, women were more likely to put on baggy clothing, and a dress when happy. Obviously, this study doesn’t take account for non-binary people and those that break gender norms in dress; but the point remains the same, that we put on looser, less revealing clothing when sad or insecure, and more revealing clothing (such as dresses or skinny jeans) when happy. Emotions play a major role in the way we style ourselves, or (if we are a stylist) how we style a character. Our outwardly appearance conveys to others, not only our personality and opinions, but what we think of ourselves. One way to counteract letting our emotions control our clothing choices is to slip into enclothed cognition (the idea that by slipping into a certain type of clothing people subconsciously slip into the identity associated with it). This concept relates to “dressing for the job you want”; if you dress very poignantly and chic you will feel more confident, like a bad-ass, and will therefore do better in your interview. Our mood is a key role when picking out of our closet, and if we can better understand how our clothes will affect our lives and mood, we will dress better and more suited for our personal identity and goals. The Covid-19 pandemic presented the world with two options of dress and style: those who seek comfort and coziness, and those who seek escapism. Many people spent time and money wearing tracksuits and sweatpants, while others chose to dress up everyday reporting that “dressing up is making me feel better”, as stated in one Vogue article. Not only do we reach for fabrics and clothing that feel great to touch and wear, but we rely on the senses and psychological associations that we have with each garment on a personal level. We have to ask ourselves: “when was the last time wearing something made you feel a specific way? What is the garment that sparked this feeling? Was this a place of exploration and safety?” These questions guide us in understanding how and why we choose the clothes we do.

In understanding the different factors that affect the way people style and the way we style ourselves, we can understand how our subconscious feelings and identity affects our dress patterns. Styling is an outwardly expression of our soul, and our most authentic selves. Through our choice of dress, we can express our political beliefs, gender, identity, personality, emotions, and create new personas through different aesthetics. Styling is not only putting on a socially acceptable outfit, but dressing to fit how we feel, think, and identify with the world. Fashion is more than a shirt and pants, but is an escape for people to say what they want to say about themselves, the world, and others.