Drag: Revitalizing Gender-Bending and Breaking Fashion Norms

By: Jada Milazzo

October 3, 2022

Drag. A word that holds so much history and power. A way for people to escape reality and be their most fantastic, outrageous, authentic self. Drag is an artform that has survived decades of hurtful words and judgment, resulting in a newfound hope for nonconformists and gender fluidity. The base elements of drag have been around since early societies began theater productions, and has grown into a worldwide community for LGBTQ and others to artistically express themselves and support others like them. Drag’s impact has been overlooked, but its influenced on the LGBTQ and nonbinary community, fashion, beauty, and performance arts will forever remain a part of history.

To understand the importance of drag on the modern world, we must look to the past. Drag can be traced back to ancient Native American, indigenous South American, Japanese theaters, and Egyptian ceremonies. Author of “Drag Diaries”, Jonathan David, wrote that spiritual occasions and events from past civilizations called for drag clothing, referring to men that were made up to look like female characters when performing ceremonial dances. The art of men portraying female roles is also prominent in ancient Greek and Shakespearian theater. The term “drag” was formed in Britain and coined by Shakespeare (DRAG: Dressed Resembling a Girl). It was used in English theater in the 1870s, as a slang term referring to the long skirts, exaggerated makeup and clothing men wore on stage. The 1880s introduced the world to vaudeville shows, a type of entertainment featuring acts such as burlesque, comedy, and song and dance. The vaudeville shows opened the doors for men to start impersonating females for a public audience. William Dorsey Swann, the self proclaimed “first queen of drag” began hosting drag balls in the 1880s. Beginning in the 1910s, gender non-conformists were forced to perform as circus acts, which can be linked to the surplus of underground drag performers in the 1930s. These underground drag shows became a phenomenon known as the “Pansy Craze”. The drag balls grew in popularity, with as many as 7,000 people of all colors and classes attended. Contests and prizes were held for best costumes and performances. LGBT people were flocking to cities all over, for the ability to connect to others like them. While the early 1900s blossomed with queerness, it was also the rise of sexology, the study of sex and sexual practices among different people and cultures. Drag soon became associated with idea of homosexuality, and the “third sex”, which was described as a feminine man or masculine woman who desires or is attracted to members of the same sex. As a result of the unknown of homosexuality, drag became shunned. Laws, such as the “Masquerade Laws”, punished people who cross dressed in public, and gay bars and performance spaces were forced to operate underground in secret, though they were often raided by the police. The unnecessary harm and hate towards the LGBTQ community, persisted until the Stonewall Riots in 1969, when patrons at the Stonewall Inn in New York City fought back against the authorities. The first pride parade was held a year later. This marked a shift in cultural acceptance. These signs of acceptance can be seen in actor Tim Curry’s “Rocky Horror Picture Show”, David Bowie’s dramatic performance style, and Divine, aka the “Drag Queen of the Century”, who inspired the design of Ursula in Disney’s “The Little Mermaid”. In most recent decades, “Paris is Burning” highlighted the drag ball culture in New York City, Rupaul and the New York club kids revolutionized gay music, fashion, art, and nightlife. The list of influencers on drag culture goes on, and current society is slowly but surely accepting LQBTQ community.

Drag has not only been something for people to turn to, to express and be their most authentic self, but the elements of drag have influenced other cultures and sub-communities of society; including: beauty, art, fashion, and performance art. Drag queens are the artists, and pioneering leaders of gay culture. Cut creases, contouring, baking, and heavy dramatic eyeliner are just a few of the makeup trends that can be traced back to the makeup practiced for drag performances. Former Kardashian makeup artist, Joyce Bonelli, has stated that many of her techniques and looks are inspired by “drag anything and everything”. Since drag is a form of entertainment involving the act of dressing up in elaborate outfits, its only natural that fashion, of all levels, has been impacted by drag. “RuPaul’s Drag Race” has introduced the world to what it takes to be a drag superstar, resulting in queens such as Trixie Mattel and Courtney Act to take over the entertainment industry. Drag Race challenges the “queens” to make and style their own outfits, as well as incorporate amazing makeup skills to create a look that makes heads turn down the runway. Designer, Joseph Altuzarra, thinks “Drag Race is such an extreme version of it [clothing, makeup, hair, and beauty] that it only makes sense that people in this industry can appreciate it and latch on” (Tran). The club kids of the 90s presented fierce fashion that was truly an avant-garde artform. Similarly, after their successful appearances on Drag Race, queens like Pearl, Miss Fame, and Milk have been invited to high fashion shows and appear in fashion advertisements. Drag queens are beginning to turn mainstream, but alternative styles of drag as well as drag kings and trans performs are still fighting for recognition.The Boulet Brothers revolutionized punk drag, showing a more grunge, filthy, horror, side of the industry. To be a drag QUEEN, is to be a makeup artist, actress, model, hair stylist, comedian, designer, and dancer. Drag at its core is an art form, allowing its members to express their opinions, beliefs, to speak their truth and present who they are on the inside. To be drag royalty is to be an artist.

Drag has been a major factor for the spread of gender fluidity in fashion. While the fight has been long and hard; modern society, with the help of celebrities and design houses, has reclaimed the right for non-gendered fashion. Stars like RuPaul, Grace Jones, and Boy George paved the way for the younger generation of celebrities to understand what it means to be fluid in dress. Gen Z and millennials are now in the fore-front of fighting gender stereotypes. The most important event in global fashion, the annual Met Gala, sponsored by Vogue, has brought queerness to the top of the headlines, with their 2019 theme of Camp: Notes on Fashion, which was the Met’s first explicitly queer exhibition. The heart of the show was exemplifying the themes of non-conformity and homosexuality as the core foundations of camp. Dorian Electra, nonconforming pop/performance artist, spoke on the idea of gender fluid fashion, explaining how they create themselves on stage, stating “gender’s a game, but the rules have got to change, [one must] transcend it and blend it and bend it til it breaks”. We are in a revolution. A revolution that encourages the idea of re-identification through dress, appearance, presentation of oneself. Drag is gaining widespread appeal, but conservative protests threaten to drive it back underground. The LGBTQ community consistently faces backlash, but drag is an artform and movement that will persist and overcome the struggles and hardships society throws at them. As long as celebrities, like Lady Gaga, Billy Porter, and Harry Styles, and shows like RuPaul’s Drag Race continue to freely show the acceptance of gender-fluidity and queerness, the world will increasingly become more accepting. It takes the boldest and bravest of society to be able to outwardly express who they truly are.

In the 21st century, drag is finally becoming a widespread and accepted artform and lifestyle. From its origins in Greek and Shakespearian theater, the basic gender-bending acts have transformed into a facet for the revolution at hand. A revolution of fashion, music, art, beauty; and drag is just the start. Drag transcends the ideology of sex and gender, and radicalizes free expression and queer culture. Drag is shocking. Drag is bizarre and stunning. Drag is the art form that drops your jaw. Drag is the revitalization and renewal of transcending one’s singular form and opening up a doorway to being whoever you want.